Fabricating Hidden Axle Plates
A lot of complicated parts that
normally require machine work can be fabricated and welded from simple sheet
and bar materials. Here is a kit we sell with all of the parts needed to make
up a hidden axle plate using simple materials. The J-bends can be made from
half a piece of tube and a piece of flat bar. The J-bend eliminates two welds.
Tools required to build this kit is a welder, drill and bits, counter sink bit,
8-32 tap, 5/16”-18 tap and a sander (bench belt sander or disc works best).
Assembly starts with fitting the outside pieces
(J-bends in the kit) so you have the correct width and length. Bevel ends where they are welded together to
ensure a proper weld. The parts in this
picture have been started but more beveling will be done before welding. The
slotted axle plate has also been fitted but is best left until the outside oval
housing has been welded together.

Once J-bends have been
welded and cleaned up, the outside cover plate can be trimmed to size. The
cover plate can be steel, stainless, aluminum (as in the kit), plastic, wood or
whatever you can dream up. It is best to leave the fit tight at this point.
Later, the cover is trimmed for an easy fit allowing for paint clearance. It is
a good idea to mark the inside of the cover plate and housing so you know which
way the cover fits every time. Since the housing is fabricated, there may be
slight differences from one end to the other.
Next, the housing is flipped over and using the outer
cover or a similar thickness shim material, tabs are held against the outside cover
and welded in place. This provides a place to attach the outside cover.

Now,
the slotted axle plate can be welded to the back of
the housing. Bevel the axle plate to ensure a proper weld and sand the back of
the housing flat. A vixen file makes quick work of smoothing down flat
surfaces. Belt sanders are a quick way to finish fabricated items. The cover
plate is marked for screw locations and placed on the housing to be drilled.
Drill holes for the 8-32 tap holes, then take the cover off of the housing and
drill to clear the 8-32 screw diameter and countersink the holes for the socket
flat head screws. Thread the housing tabs with 8-32 threads. The aluminum cover
can be polished and set aside for final assembly. The front of the housing is
drilled and tapped 5/16”-18 for the provided stainless setscrews. The setscrew
is positioned to push against the axle washer to provide axle adjustment. A nut
is provided for locking the adjuster screw. The nut can be installed inside the
housing but may be difficult to tighten unless some kind of special tool is
made for the job. The cover tab might be trimmed for better access.
Here is a picture of the
completed housing with the cover screwed in place. Now it just needs a frame
welded to it!
